We all have our own idea of what a photo presentation in ProShow Producer should look like and we are all at different levels of understanding the software.
What you see on this page reflects my ideas and assumes the reader has a basic knowledge of the key features of ProShow Producer.
Since early 2009, I have been helping users to create their own effects. During that time it has become apparent that a lot of people do not understand the concept of Masking Layers and, in particular, the use of Solid Colours. For that reason, on this page, wherever I refer to Masking Layers and offer downloads that include Masking Layers, I have incorporated a separate White Mask.
If you are familiar with Solid Colours and know how to create them, you can simply replace the White Masking Layers with your own Solid Colours.
If you would like to find out more about creating Masking Layers / Solid Colours and Gradients, you should go to the "Information" link above and follow that link to "Help for New Users", where you will find a section devoted to the subject.
Creating a Show
I am often asked how I go about creating a show In ProShow. 'It's simple,' I say, 'I plan what I'm going to do and then do it.' That statement might be a little over simplified, but in principal, it's correct.
Before I do anything, I spend time getting to know the photographs I am going to use - especially if they are not my own. This might sound like an obvious thing to do, but by studying the pictures I not only get to know the images themselves, but I also begin to get a 'feel' for what the finished show should look like. The photographs themselves create the mood of the show and dictate its pace and appearance. For example, kids playing on a beach might suggest an up-tempo pace with snappy transitions, while scenes of the countryside might require a more relaxed, slower feel. It's while studying the photos that I start to think about the music. For me, the music is as important as the images - for it is only when the two cohabit the screen in harmony that the show really works. I often spend many hours searching for the right music, listening to different tunes while looking at the photographs.
I usually know when I have found the right piece of music as I start to picture the show in my mind. I begin to think about different effects I could create to fit a particular musical phrase and where individual images would fit into the finished show. Eventually, after all this time looking at pictures and listening to music, I have a pretty good idea of what I am going to do with the show, and I can see the finished presentation in my mind. So, now is the time to run ProShow.
Having set up a new show in ProShow, the first thing I do is import the music track and set the fade in and fade out - this helps to eliminate those annoying sound bumps at the start and the end of a show.
Personally, I like a show to appear from a black screen, so I always insert a blank slide at the start, usually with an AB transition, which runs for about half a second. I then slide the music track and position it so the pictures and music appear together. This might take a few attempts until I'm happy with it.
You might find what I do next a little strange, but over the years I have found it works well for me.
The next thing I do is to insert a blank slide and stretch it to fit a musical phrase. As this is the start of the show, it might well have to include a title or caption, so it will need to be long enough for that. Once that is done, I then insert another blank slide and set it to the next musical phrase. That done, I carry on inserting blank slides all the way through the show. When you do this, you create a rhythm for the show and ensure that each image or effect will fit perfectly with the music. Some slides will be short and others quite long. This is a good thing as it provides interest for the viewer and gives the finished show a professional appearance.
With all the blank slides in place, it is possible to play the show from the start and listen to the music, while watching the time line and 'feeling' what image or effect is required for a particular musical phrase.
I cannot stress enough how important it is to match images to music. To show you what I mean, have a look here and run video 1.
Now, with all the planning done and the basic show format in place, we can start to have fun and be creative.
I always start with the opening and show title. Where ever possible I try to make the opening representative of what is to follow. I might split the screen into sections, each showing a taster of what is to come, or maybe concentrate on one image that gives a feeling of the show content. What I do with the opening is very often determined by the individual photographs available.
Having satisfied myself that the opening is what I want, I might then move on to a slide halfway through the show, particularly if it is an effect I need to create and one that might require a lot of time and work. As I begin to insert images and effects into the show, it becomes more obvious which pictures need to be set to which musical phrase. Gradually the show takes shape and eventually all the blank slides are filled. Once I reach this point, I render the show and make an mpg copy.
At this point I usually go away and make myself a coffee or have a meal. I try to forget about the show and what I have just created.
When I return, I run the mpg video against a black screen. I can't really explain why I do this, but for some reason I like to watch the show away from ProShow. It's as if I am watching a new show that I haven't seen before. OK, call me strange, but it works for me.
Watching the show in this way, I can almost see it with fresh eyes. I am always very critical at this time and scribble notes of things that need to be changed. I pay particular attention to transitions and timing. Sometimes a cut that has seemed on the beat in ProShow is slightly off when viewed in a rendered video.
Now I go back to ProShow and make all the necessary changes, watching the show over and over again and tweaking it until I am perfectly happy.
But it doesn't matter how much attention to pay to detail, when you view your masterpiece a few months later, you can always see something you wish you had done differently. I guess that's all part of the fun of creating these shows. As time goes by, we learn new things and our views change - but what is done is done and the past cannot be changed. Just live with it and enjoy it.
Image Extractions
Image Extractions
The video to the right has been
compiled to show what can be
achieved by using Image Extractions
to create effects in ProShow Producer.
To create any Image Extraction
you will need the necessary software.
The two most popular programs
on the market are
Adobe Photoshop
&
Adobe Photoshop Elements
Working with Image Extractions
Of all the effects I have posted on YouTube, this simple 2 Layer, moving statue seems to have caught the imagination more than any other.
I have received so many requests for an explanation of how to create it, that I thought I would include it here.
I have detailed the HowTo process below and, if you want, you can download a style of the effect (complete with photos) by clicking here.
Click on the image (right) to view the demo.
Preparation is the key
Original image
Extracted image
It is very simple and very quick to create this effect in ProShow. What takes time, is preparing the images to use.
You will need a piece of software to make an extracted image of the subject - in this case the statue.
I use Adobe Photoshop, which is very good and has an extract feature, making the whole process a lot quicker. When you extract the image, you must ensure you place it on a transparent background.
I have found a very good tutorial for image extraction in Photoshop by Gavin Hoey, which I have included at the bottom of this page.
Once you have extracted the subject - which must be exactly the same size as the original image (Photoshop does this for you automatically) - you can create the effect.
The first thing to do is place the original image onto a slide. Having done that, position the subject of the image where you want it and adjust the size.
Now add the extracted image to another Layer. ctrl+click+drag You must now position this image exactly as you did for the first one, making sure you copy all the settings from the Layer with the original photo.
Once you have done this, you can play the slide and you should see the original photo with the extracted image over the top, but because they are both positioned exactly the same, it will appear as if you are seeing only the original photo. If the two images are not correctly aligned, you have probably missed a setting when you copied them.
With both images aligned exactly the same, you can now add the movement.
Go to the Layer with the extracted image and increase its size on Keyframe 2. It might be necessary to reposition the enlarged image slightly so it covers all of the original subject behind.
If you play the slide now, you will see the subject 'grow' away from the background. But we haven't finished yet.
Now go to the Layer with the original photo. On Keyframe 2 move the image down slightly, making sure you don't go too far or you will see the edge of the picture.
When you play the slide now, the subject will appear to move away from the background as the background itself pans up. This should give the desired effect.
You might find that a bit of minor tweaking is required to get the finished effect exactly the way you want, but basically, that's all there is to it.
Now that you have an understanding of how to use an extracted image, you will be able to create many other impressive effects.
Try keeping the subject sharp while you make the background drift out of focus. You can also make the background become black and white while the subject stays in colour. Or do both at the same time.
The next time you are outside with your camera, take a photo of an empty street and another of a car moving along the same street. Then extract the car from the photo, add it to the empty street photo, then move the extracted image of the car so that it appears to drive off. You could do the same thing with a child on a bike in the park. The possibilities are almost endless.
An extracted image over a background is a very simple effect to create and one that can look more complex than it really is.
Working with Image Masks
As with the section above, to create this type of effect you will need to use Photoshop or Elements.
This is another effect you can create easily in ProShow Producer. It will give your show a unique look as each effect is taylor made to fit your photos.
The effect seen in the video to the right took only a few minutes to make, including the extraction.
You are about to discover how simple it is to create your own image mask effects.
When extracting an image to use for this type of effect, it is always a good idea to extract along a hard line. By doing this, it makes the two images blend more seamlessly when placed one on top of the other. This is important as the extracted image will need to be switched on and off during the effect.
Original image
Extracted image
Although still simple to make, this effect requires a little more time than the effect in the previous section. This is because you will need to set several Keyframes for the various Layers. Let me explain. This effect works by hiding a photo behind another image and then moving it into view. Once the photo is fully visible, the masking image is switched off and the photo can then be moved again to cover any part of the screen, without being obscured by the mask. Look at the Layer details below, which show how the effect above was created.
Layer 1
This is the Extracted Image. By changing the Opacity Setting from 100% to 0% it is possible to make the mask appear and disappear as required. Each time a new photo appears the mask needs an Opacity Setting of 100%, so it obscures the photo and gives the impression of the photo appearing from behind. Once the photo is fully in view, the mask's Opacity Setting must be set to 0%, so the photo can be expanded without being obscured. This sequence repeats for each photo as it appears. The Keyframe settings look something like this. Kf 1 - 100%. Kf 2 - 100%. Kf 3 - 0%. Kf 4 - 0%. Kf 5 - 100%. Kf 6 - 100%. Kf 7 - 0%.
Layer 2
Photo 2 - The distant shot of the Hapshetsut Temple. In the example above I squashed the photos vertically as they appeared from behind the mask. Once the photos are in full view they are stretched to fit the screen and the X,Y ratio is corrected. I also added a 5° rotation for effect. The Keyframe settings look something like this. Kf 1 - Kf 2 The squashed photo moves from behind the mask. Kf 2 - Kf 3 The squashed photos remains static. Kf 3 - Kf 4 The Photo grows to about 75% and turns through 5°. Kf 4 - Kf 5 The photo remains static. Kf 5 - Kf 6 The photo spins off the screen.
Layer 3
Photo 1 - The shot of me having a rest. (I'm not good when it's 40+°C) The settings for this Layer are the same as for Layer 2, only further along the time line.
Layer 4
The Original Image, from which the extracted image was taken. This image remains static throughout most of the effect. Once the final photo has spun off and the extracted image has been faded out, this image grows to about 120%.
And that's about it.
If you want to make this effect a little more complicated, there's no reason why you couldn't replace the standard photos with
photos attached to Masking Layers. By doing that, you could create more complex effects, such as making the enlarged photos zoom in or pan or even rotate while maintaining their X & Y dimensions on the screen.
I hope this brief explanation has encouraged you to delve deeper into the possibilities of working with Image Masks. Once you have mastered the basics, there's no reason why you shouldn't experiment with many more ideas. For example: you could make a child pop up out of a parcel like a Jack In A Box. You could make someone or something appear from behind a Lamp-post. You could make an aeroplane move in and out of the clouds or even make a car disappear into a pothole in the road. (This is a topical subject in the UK at the moment.) No matter what effect you create, you can be assured that it is individual to your show. So get personalizing.....
Making a Simple Grid
How many times have you used a grid? How many times have you made your own 'tailor made' grid for one of your shows? If you answered 'never' then it's time to put that right.
A grid can be an impressive effect, and is a very good way to grab the viewer's attention. And they are not as difficult to make as you might think.
In this section I will explain how to create a basic grid with 2 images and a background. Once you have mastered that, there's no reason why you shouldn't be able to create your own custom grids for your future presentations.
When you think about it, a grid is nothing more than a few white lines and a couple of white squares with photos attached to them. If you think of it like that, the mystery fades and the whole concept becomes less daunting.
You should be able to easily make the grid detailed below in an hour or so. By making it yourself - and not downloading a style - you will quickly learn the principals of the effect and, before you know it, you will be making grids to your own design. Honestly, it's not as difficult as you think.
Simply put, a grid is nothing more than a sequence of images, displayed together or following one another, with extended borders.
With each image attached to a masking layer it is possible to contain images as they move or zoom within the confines of the extended border or grid.
By moving the borders separately and independently of the images, it is possible to create some very interesting effects.
Personally, I think a grid works well as a title or opening sequence, where text and images can be grouped, such that they provide an interesting visual display that holds the viewer's attention and is both informative and pleasing to the eye.
How your grid will work
When we construct this effect we will start with the grid lines. We will place each line on a separate Layer : Layers 1, 2, 3 & 4. Each of these Layers has 7 Keyframes which we will use to control the movement and position of the lines.
Keyframe 1 - 2 : Draws the line on the screen.
Keyframe 2 - 3 : The line remains static.
Keyframe 3 - 4 : The line moves to the centre of the screen.
Keyframe 4 - 5 : The line remains static.
Keyframe 5 - 6 : The line moves back to its original position but with 5° rotation.
Keyframe 6 - 7 : The line remains static.
Next we will add the first masking layer for the first image. This will go on Layer 5. This Layer has 5 Keyframes.
Keyframe 1 - 2 : Fade up. Set transition.
Keyframe 2 - 3 :
The mask remains static.
Keyframe 3 - 4 : The mask reduces in size to 0:0.
Keyframe 4 - 5 :
Fade out. This removes any spurious flashing that may occur.
Next we will add the first image. This will go on Layer 6. This Layer has 6 Keyframes.
Keyframe 1 - 2 : The image remains static.
Keyframe 2 - 3 : The image zooms in.
Keyframe 3 - 4 : The image remains static.
Keyframe 4 - 5 : The images reduces in size to 0:0.
Keyframe 5 - 6 : Fade out.
Next we will add the second masking layer for the second image. This will go on Layer 7. This layer has 3 Keyframes.
Keyframe 1 - 2 : The mask zooms in from position 0:0 and turns through 5°.
Keyframe 2 - 3 :
The mask remains static.
Next we add the second image. This will go on Layer 8. This Layer has 5 Keyframes.
Keyframe 1 - 2 : The image zooms in from position 0:0 and turns through 5°.
Keyframe 2 - 3 : The image remains static.
Keyframe 3 - 4 : The image zooms in.
Keyframe 4 - 5 : The image remains static.
Finally we add the background image. This will go on Layer 9.
This Layer requires no additional Keyframes.
Slide, Layer & Keyframe Settings
This slide has been designed for widescreen 16 x 9 format.
Set your slide time to 20 seconds.
Unless otherwise stated, all Layers are set to 'Fit to Frame' in Slide Options / Layers / Layer Settings / Scaling.
Layer 1. White Line.png
Slide Options / Effects / Motion Effects
Keyframe 1 : Time = 1 sec. Pan -100 x -35. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%.
Keyframe 2 : Time = 4 sec. Pan 0 x -35. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%.
Keyframe 3 : Time = 10 sec. Pan 0 x -35. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%.
Keyframe 4 : Time = 12 sec. Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%.
Keyframe 5 : Time = 12.01 sec. Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%.
Keyframe 6 : Time = 15 sec. Pan 0 x -35. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 5°.
Keyframe 7 :
Time = End of slide. Pan 0 x -35. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 5°.
Layer 2. White Line.png
Slide Options
/ Effects / Motion Effects
Keyframe 1 : Time = 1 sec. Pan 100 x 35. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%.
Keyframe 2 : Time = 4 sec. Pan 0 x 35. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%.
Keyframe 3 : Time = 10 sec. Pan 0 x 35. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%
Keyframe 4 : Time = 12 sec. Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%.
Keyframe 5 : Time = 12.01 sec. Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%.
Keyframe 6 : Time = 15 sec. Pan 0 x 35. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 5°.
Keyframe 7 : Time
= End of slide. Pan 0 x 35. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 5°.
Layer 3. White Line.png
Slide Options
/ Effects / Motion Effects
Keyframe 1 : Time = 1 sec. Pan -35 x 140. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 90°.
Keyframe 2 : Time = 4 sec. Pan -35 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 90°.
Keyframe 3 : Time = 10 sec. Pan -35 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 90°.
Keyframe 4 : Time = 12 sec. Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 90°.
Keyframe 5 : Time = 12.01 sec. Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 90°.
Keyframe 6 : Time = 15 sec. Pan -35 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 95°.
Keyframe 7 : Time = End of slide. Pan -35 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 95°.
Layer 4. White Line.png
Slide Options
/ Effects / Motion Effects
Keyframe 1 : Time = 1 sec. Pan 35 x -140. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 90°.
Keyframe 2 : Time = 4 sec. Pan 35 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 90°.
Keyframe 3 : Time = 10 sec. Pan 35 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 90°.
Keyframe 4 : Time = 12 sec. Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 90°.
Keyframe 5 : Time = 12.01 sec. Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 90°.
Keyframe 6 : Time = 15 sec. Pan 35 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 95°.
Keyframe 7 : Time = End of slide. Pan 35 x 0. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 50%. Rotate 95°.
Layer 5. blank.png
Slide Options / Effects / Motion Effects
Keyframe 1 : Time = 4 sec. Zoom X 93% Zoom Y 70%. Transition - Big Dots Upper Left to Lower Right -Time 1.5 sec.
Keyframe 2 : Time = 5 sec. Zoom X 93% Zoom Y 70%.
Keyframe 3 : Time = 10 sec. Zoom X 93% Zoom Y 70%.
Keyframe 4 : Time = 12 sec. Zoom X 0% Zoom Y 0%.
Keyframe 5 :
Time = 12.01 sec. Zoom X 0% Zoom Y 0%.
Slide Options / Effects / Adjustment Effects
Keyframe 1 : Opacity 0%.
Keyframe 2 : Opacity 100%.
Keyframe 3 : Opacity 100%.
Keyframe 4 :
Opacity 100%.
Keyframe 5 :
Opacity 0%.
Layer 6. Landscape Image 1.
Slide Options / Effects / Motion Effects
Keyframe 1 : Time = 4 sec. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 100%.
Keyframe 2 : Time = 6 sec. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 100%.
Keyframe 3 : Time = 9 sec. Zoom x 120% Zoom Y 120%.
Keyframe 4 : Time = 10 sec. Zoom X 120% Zoom Y 120%.
Keyframe 5 : Time = 12 sec. Zoom X 0% Zoom Y 0%.
Keyframe 6 : Time = 12.01 sec. Zoom X 0% Zoom Y 0%.
Slide Options / Effects / Adjustment Effects
Keyframe 1 : Opacity 100%.
Keyframe 2 : Opacity 100%.
Keyframe 3 : Opacity 100%.
Keyframe 4 : Opacity 100%.
Keyframe 5 : Opacity 100%.
Keyframe 6 :
Opacity 0%.
Once you have added Layer 6, right click on Layer 5 in the Layers Box in Slide Options / Effects / Motion Effects and select 'Use as masking layer'.
Layer 7. blank.png
Slide Options / Effects / Motion Effects
Keyframe 1 : Time = 12.01 sec. Zoom X 0% Zoom Y 0%. Rotate 0°.
Keyframe 2 : Time = 15 sec. Zoom X 93% Zoom Y 70%. Rotate 5°.
Keyframe 3 : Time =
End of slide. Zoom X 93% Zoom Y 70%. Rotate 5°.
Layer 8. Landscape Image 2.
Slide Options / Effects / Motion Effects
Keyframe 1 : Time = 12.01 sec. Zoom X 0% Zoom Y 0% Rotate 0°.
Keyframe 2 : Time = 15 sec. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 100%. Rotate 5°.
Keyframe 3 : Time = 16 sec. Zoom X 100% Zoom Y 100%. Rotate 5°.
Keyframe 4 : Time = 19 sec. Zoom X 120% Zoom Y 120%. Rotate 5°.
Keyframe 5 : Time = End of slide.
Zoom X 120% Zoom Y 120%. Rotate 5°.
Once you have added Layer 8, right click on Layer 7 in the Layers Box in Slide Options / Effects / Motion Effects and select 'Use as masking layer'.
Layer 9. Landscape Image 3. (Background Image)
Slide Options / Layers / Layer Settings / Scaling - Select "Fill Frame".
This image remains static and does not therefore require any further settings. If you want, you could play with it and make it zoom at the start.
And that's about it. I have to admit, it looks complicated when you see it in text format - as it is above - but once you enter the info into ProShow Producer, you will realize how simple it is. Don't forget, look carefully and understand what settings you are entering for each keyframe as you type, and you will soon be able to create your own grids to your own design.
Rotating a Circle
Rotating a Circle or Ellipse
This is a simple effect to create and one
with many applications.
The video to the right shows
what can be achieved with just a few Layers
and a simple white circle. It takes only a few
minutes to create.
I have listed the HowTo below.
The graphic to the left shows the Layers as set for the video above.
Layer 1
Layer 2
Layer 3
Layer 4
This is a white circle which is used as a masking layer. You can either create a white circle in Photoshop or use a square solid color, set to ellipse in Vignette, or you can download a white circle here.
This is the first image layer and is linked to the Masking Layer above.
This is the second image layer and is also linked to the Masking Layer above.
This is another layer with the white circle. This layer is used to create the white border around the image.
This effect is, in fact, a cheat as the image does not really rotate, it merely appears to do so. It is just an illusion. The effect is created by locking an image to a circular mask, which is squashed on the X axis and then stretched back to its original size. The result creates the illusion of rotation.
Layer 1
Keyframe
Time
Settings
1
0 sec
Zoom X = 219 Zoom Y = 219
2
2 sec
Zoom X = 219 Zoom Y = 219
3
4 sec
Zoom X = 95 Zoom Y = 95
4
6 sec
Zoom X = 95 Zoom Y = 95
5
9 sec
Zoom X = 0 Zoom Y = 95
6
12 sec
Zoom X = 95 Zoom Y = 95
7
14 sec
Zoom X = 95 Zoom Y = 95
8
17 sec
Zoom X = 219 Zoom Y = 219
Layer 2
1
0 sec
Zoom X = 100 Zoom Y = 100
2
6 sec
Zoom X = 100 Zoom Y = 100
3
9 sec
Zoom X = 0 Zoom Y = 100
Layer 3
1
9 sec
Zoom X = 0 Zoom Y = 100
2
12 sec
Zoom X = 100 Zoom Y = 100
3
17 sec
Zoom X = 100 Zoom Y = 100
Layer 4
1
0 sec
Zoom X = 225 Zoom Y = 225
2
2 sec
Zoom X = 225 Zoom Y = 225
3
4 sec
Zoom X = 100 Zoom Y = 100
4
6 sec
Zoom X = 100 Zoom Y = 100
5
9 sec
Zoom X = 0 Zoom Y = 100
6
12 sec
Zoom X = 100 Zoom Y = 100
7
14 sec
Zoom X = 100 Zoom Y = 100
8
17 sec
Zoom X = 225 Zoom Y = 225
If you want to do away with the white border, just leave out Layer 4. You can change the shape of the circle and create an ellipse by altering the X and Y sizes.
Once you have got the idea of rotating the circle, you can easily place several circles on the screen at the same time and rotate them together or individually.
Splitting an Image
Creating Split Image Effects
Splitting an image onto two or more layers
is an effect with virtually unlimited applications.
These effects are not difficult to achieve
but it can take a little time
to correctly align
the masks.
The short video on the right has been made
to show a simple split image effect and
is an easy one to make if you have not done
this before.
I have detailed the HowTo below.
The graphic to the left shows the Layers as set for the video above.
Layer 1
Layer 2
Layer 3
Layer 4
Layer 5
16x9 White solid colour mask. This is used only on the left hand side of the screen. Click here to download this mask or create it yourself using a Solid Color.
The image to be split.
16x9 White solid colour mask. This is used only on the right hand side of the screen.
The image to be split.
The background image.
Set the Aspect Ratio to 16:9
Layer 1 : Set Layer to Fill Frame
Keyframe
Time
Settings
1
0 sec
Pan 24.92 x 0. Zoom X = 50. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 0
2
3 sec
Pan 24.92 x 0. Zoom X = 50. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 0
3
6 sec
Pan 24.92 x 0. Zoom X = 50. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 360
4
8 sec
Pan 24.92 x 0. Zoom X = 50. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 360
5
11 sec
Pan 75.92 x 0. Zoom X = 50. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 360
6
15 sec
Pan 75.92 x 0. Zoom X = 50. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 360
Layer 2 : Set Layer to Fill Frame
1
0 sec
Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X =120. Zoom Y = 120. Rotate = 0. Rotation Centre = 0 x 0.
2
3 sec
Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X =100. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 0. Rotation Centre = 25 x 0.
3
6 sec
Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X =100. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 360. Rotation Centre = 25 x 0.
4
8 sec
Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X =100. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 360. Rotation Centre = 25 x 0.
5
11 sec
Pan 51 x 0. Zoom X =100. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 360. Rotation Centre = 25 x 0.
6
15 sec
Pan 51 x 0. Zoom X =100. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 360. Rotation Centre = 25 x 0.
Layer 3 : Set Layer to Fill Frame
1
0 sec
Pan -24.92 x 0. Zoom X = 50. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 0
2
3 sec
Pan -24.92 x 0. Zoom X = 50. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = 0
3
6 sec
Pan -24.92 x 0. Zoom X = 50. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = -360
4
8 sec
Pan -24.92 x 0. Zoom X = 50. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = -360
5
11 sec
Pan -75.92 x 0. Zoom X = 50. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = -360
6
15 sec
Pan -75.92 x 0. Zoom X = 50. Zoom Y = 100. Rotate = -360
Layer 4 : Set Layer to Fill Frame
1
0 sec
Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X =120. Zoom Y = 120. Rotate = 0. Rotation Centre = 0 x 0.
2
3 sec
Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X =120. Zoom Y = 120. Rotate = 0. Rotation Centre = -25 x 0.
3
6 sec
Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X =120. Zoom Y = 120. Rotate = -360. Rotation Centre = -25 x 0
4
8 sec
Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X =120. Zoom Y = 120. Rotate = -360. Rotation Centre = -25 x 0
5
11 sec
Pan -51 x 0. Zoom X =120. Zoom Y = 120. Rotate = -360. Rotation Centre = -25 x 0
6
15 sec
Pan -51 x 0. Zoom X =120. Zoom Y = 120. Rotate = -360. Rotation Centre = -25 x 0
Layer 5 : Set Layer to Fill Frame
1
6 sec
Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X = 100. Zoom Y = 100.
2
10.5 sec
Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X = 100. Zoom Y = 100.
3
14 sec
Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X = 150. Zoom Y = 150.
4
15 sec
Pan 0 x 0. Zoom X = 150. Zoom Y = 150.
Make your own wipe / transition
The video on the right shows a wipe
(transition) I created for a video I made some
time ago about the Marshall Amplification
Exhibition Stand.
Personalized wipes (transitions) are not
difficult to create and they give your show a
unique look.
The guitar wipe is simple to make. It took
five minutes in Photoshop and a couple of
minutes in ProShow Producer.
I have set out the HowTo below
and you can download the guitar graphic from
the Masks & Graphics page.
In this example, I have not provided a detailed Keyframe Settings list. As this effect is simple to create, I have merely described what you have to do.
Start by placing the guitar mask on Layer 1 of a slide. You can, in fact, use any mask here.
Now add the two images you wish to 'wipe' between on to Layers 2 and 3.
Now right click on Layer 1 and set it as a Making Layer. Layer 2 will now become indented and linked to the mask above.
Now select Layer 3 and click on the right arrow button. This will attach Layer 3 to the mask above.
Your Layers List should now look something like the graphic right.
Layer 1
Set the mask so that the image fully fills the screen. Keep the mask in this position for the first half of the slide. Now set the mask so that at half way through the slide it has reduced to 0x0. A dot in the centre of the screen. Leave it in this position for .1 of a second, then bring it back to its original size and keep it like that for the remainder of the slide.
Layer 2
Set this Layer so that it fills the screen. This Layer needs to be seen from the start of the slide and must disappear half way through the slide.
Layer 3
Set this Layer so that it fills the screen. This Layer needs to appear half way through the slide and remain in position until the end of the slide.
In the demo video, I made the first image reduce in size and the second image increase in size. You can add this effect by changing the Zoom X and Zoom Y settings accordingly.
How to 'Flip' an Image
Here's an easy one for you.
I have been asked many times how I make an image 'flip'. It's really very simple and can look good as part of a more complex slide style.
Like many effects in Producer, the 'Flip' is really an illusion. The image appears to move from one position to another while twisting and rotating as it goes.
Although the image does rotate, the effect of twisting is accomplished by simply reducing the size on the x-axis.
The details below show you how to create the effect.
The graphic above shows the Slide Options screen for the 'Flip' video at the top of this section.
To create this effect, start by dragging an image onto a slide and setting the slide length to 9 seconds with a 1 second A/B transition at the end.
Now insert Keyframes at 1 second and 7 seconds.
The Keyframe at 1 second has the same settings as the Start and the Keyframe at 7 seconds has the same settings as the Finish. This gives us a 1 second pause at the start and finish of the video.
In the Start Position, set the image to a size of 60% and position it at X = -24. Y = 0.
Now in the End Position, set the image to a size of 60% and position it at X = 24. Y = 0. Set the Rotate setting to 360º.
Now insert a Keyframe at 5 seconds.
Leave the Automatic Toggle settings at Automatic (Green).
Now change the value of the Zoom X setting on the newly inserted Keyframe to 1%. Note: You will have to unlock the Zoom Lock function by breaking the link to the right of the settings. See graphic above.
You can now do the Pete Flip. (sounds like a 1960's dance)
Learn how to make a Cube turn
Creating a moving cube is not nearly as difficult as you might have thought. Once you realise what the images are really doing on the screen, it's actually quite simple to make a cube turn.
Like many effects in Producer, the turning cube effect is nothing more than an illusion - fooling the observer into believing that he or she is seeing what they want to see.
In this section, you will discover what really happens during the turning cube effect and how you can create it yourself.
The 2 videos below show the individual movement of the first 2 images in the turning cube effect.
In the video above, you can see the movement of the first image in the effect.
What you really see.
At the start of the movement, you see a square image in the centre of the screen with no Rotation applied.
This image then rotates, around a point at the bottom right of the image, through 90º.
As the image rotates, it reduces in height (Y axis), finally disappearing when the image reaches 90º.
In the video above, you can see the movement of the second image in the effect.
What you really see.
As with the previous image, this image rotates around a point at the bottom right.
When the movement starts, the image has been reduced in width (X axis) to 0% and rotated through -90º.
As the image moves, the width increases to 100% as it rotates 90º to its final position in the centre of the screen.
When the two moving images above are shown at the same time, it appears as if the second face of a cube moves into view as the original image turns away. Thus the turning cube is born.
Here's a tip you might find useful.
When you rotate an image to create the turning cube effect, it is necessary to ensure that the final position of that image aligns perfectly with the start position of the following image.
Once you have your first image in place, set the grid lines to align with the edges of the image. This will help you to set all the images in their final positions.
The graphic to the right shows one of the preview screens from the Slide Options / Effects screen. In this graphic, you can see the grid lines set to the egdes of the image.
A word about the Rotation Center
It is possible to rotate an image around any screen position.
The grid on the right shows the screen locations in Producer. The same grid positions apply to any image placed on the screen. Therefore, the centre of an image will be 0,0. The bottom right will be 50,50 and the top right 50,-50 and so on. This rule applies no matter where the image is positioned on the screen.
By default, the rotation center of an image is 0,0. However, by changing the Rotation Center setting, it is possible to re-position the rotation center anywhere on the image.
You will need to do this when creating the turning cube effect.
The Screen Positions Layout in Producer
-50,-50
-40,-50
-30,-50
-20,-50
-10,-50
0,-50
10,-50
20,-50
30,-50
40,-50
50,-50
-50,-40
-40,-40
-30,-40
-20,-40
-10,-40
0,-40
10,-40
20,-40
30,-40
40,-40
50,-40
-50,-30
-40,-30
-30,-30
-20,-30
-10,-30
0,-30
10,-30
20,-30
30,-30
40,-30
50,-30
-50,-20
-40,-20
-30,-20
-20,-20
-10,-20
0,-20
10,-20
20,-20
30,-20
40,-20
50,-20
-50,-10
-40,-10
-30,-10
-20,-10
-10,-10
0,-10
10,-10
20,-10
30,-10
40,-10
50,-10
-50,0
-40,0
-30,0
-20,0
-10,0
0,0
10,0
20,0
30,0
40,0
50,0
-50,10
-40,10
-30,10
-20,10
-10,10
0,10
10,10
20,10
30,10
40,10
50,10
-50,20
-40,20
-30,20
-20,20
-10,20
0,20
10,20
20,20
30,20
40,20
50,20
-50,30
-40,30
-30,30
-20,30
-10,30
0,30
10,30
20,30
30,30
40,30
50,30
-50,40
-40,40
-30,40
-20,40
-10,40
0,40
10,40
20,40
30,40
40,40
50,40
-50,50
-40,50
-30,50
-20,50
-10,50
0,50
10,50
20,50
30,50
40,50
50,50
To reproduce the video at the top of this section, you will need 3 images cropped exactly square.
Start by inserting a blank slide onto the timeline and setting the length of the slide to 9 seconds with a 1 second A/B transition at the end. Now place your 3 images onto Layers 1,2 & 3.
Below are the settings for the 3 Layers.
Try playing the show after you enter each Layer. That way, you will better understand what each Layer is doing.
Settings for Layer 3
Settings for Layer 2
Settings for Layer 1
Keyframe 1 at 0 seconds (start)
Pan 0 x 0
Zoom X = 70%
Zoom Y = 70%
Rotate 0º
Rotation Center 0 x 0
Keyframe 2 at 1 second
Pan 0 x 0
Zoom X = 70%
Zoom Y = 70%
Rotate 0º
Rotation Center 50 x 50
Keyframe 3 at 4 seconds (cut)
Pan 0 x 35
Zoom X = 70%
Zoom Y = 0%
Rotate 90º
Ratation Center 50 x 50
Keyframe 1 at 1 second (cut)
Pan 19.6 x 0
Zoom X = 0%
Zoom Y = 70%
Rotate -90º
Rotation Center 50 x 50
Keyframe 2 at 4 seconds
Pan 0 x 0
Zoom X = 70%
Zoom Y = 70%
Rotate 0º
Rotation Center 50 x 50
Keyframe 3 at 5 seconds
Pan 0 x 0
Zoom X = 70%
Zoom Y = 70%
Rotate 0º
Rotation Center -50 x -50
Keyframe 4 at 8 seconds (cut)
Pan 0 x -35
Zoom X = 70%
Zoom Y = 0%
Rotate 90º
Rotation Center -50 x -50
Keyframe 1 at 5 seconds (cut)
Pan -19.5 x 0
Zoom X = 0%
Zoom Y = 70%
Rotate -90º
Rotation Center -50 x -50
Keyframe 2 at 8 seconds
Pan 0 x 0
Zoom X = 70%
Zoom Y = 70%
Rotate 0º
Rotation Center -50 x -50
Keyframe 3 at 10 seconds (end)
As Keyframe 2
By now, you will have a basic understanding of the Turning Cube effect and should be able to experiment with more complex cube effects to your own design.
How was it for you?
I hope you found this new page interesting.
It's difficult to know what to include as different ProShowers are at different levels of working with the software. I don't want to talk down to people, but on the other hand, I don't want to confuse newcomers.
If you have any suggestions of "HowTo's" you would like me to include on this page, please let me know.
I would also appreciate your feedback regarding the present content. It will give me some idea of what direction to take this feature.
